Forget the well-trodden path between Sok Kwu Wan and Yung Shue Wan. While that hike offers lovely vistas, the true soul of Lamma Island isn't found on its main artery. It’s hidden in overgrown footpaths leading to abandoned villages, in the secret menus of family-run seafood spots, and on rocky, wave-battered shores known only to the island’s tight-knit community of artists, fishermen, and long-term expats. This is a guide to the Lamma that locals love—a place of serene chaos, unexpected art, and breathtaking quiet just a 25-minute ferry ride from Central’s skyscrapers.
Beyond the Main Drag: Villages with a Whisper
Yung Shue Wan, with its organic cafes and trinket shops, is the friendly face of Lamma. But venture just ten minutes in any direction, and the tourist veneer melts away.
Picnic Bay (Kamikaze Cave & The Hidden Beach)
Most maps call it "Picnic Bay," but locals still use its old name, Yung Shue Ha. The small beach here is pleasant, but the real secrets are on its fringes. To the right, a narrow, partially obscured path winds around the headland. Follow it to discover the entrances to the so-called Kamikaze Caves. These are not natural formations but WWII-era tunnels dug by Japanese forces to hide speedboats for suicide missions. Exploring them (with a good flashlight and sturdy shoes) is a haunting, historical adventure. Continue past the caves, scrambling over some easy rocks, and you’ll find yourself on a completely secluded little cove, perfect for a private swim away from any crowds.
Lo So Shing & The Backyard Gardens
The village of Lo So Shing, with its tiny beach, feels forgotten by time. The secret here isn’t a single landmark but a practice. Take the winding paths behind the village houses. You’ll stumble upon the incredible, terraced backyard gardens of Lamma’s residents—lush, productive plots overflowing with papaya, bananas, herbs, and flowers. It’s a living tapestry of island self-sufficiency. Be respectful and admire from the path; these are people’s homes. The walk from Lo So Shing towards Sok Kwu Wan on the upper path offers staggering, uninterrupted views of the ocean far from the main hiking trail.
The Foodie’s Underground: Not Just Seafood on the Promenade
Yes, the Sok Kwu Wan seafood restaurants are an institution. But the local food scene runs deeper.
The "Other" Sok Kwu Wan Experience
Instead of picking from the tanks on the main strip, walk to the very end of the Sok Kwu Wan village, near the ferry pier for the kaido (small ferry) to Aberdeen. Here, you’ll find a few open-air dai pai dong style places that cater to fishermen and island workers. The English menus are basic or non-existent. Point, smile, and trust. You’ll get incredibly fresh, simply prepared clams in black bean sauce, steamed garoupa, and crispy squid at a fraction of the tourist price. For a truly unique experience, find the stall selling freshly made yong tau foo—you pick your fish balls, tofu, and vegetables, and they boil it in a light broth on the spot.
Hidden Cafes & The Best Pint
In Yung Shue Wan, bypass the obvious waterfront spots and duck into Bookworm Cafe. Tucked away, it’s a labyrinth of used books, cozy nooks, and strong coffee—a haven for writers and readers. For sunset, the ultimate local secret is the rooftop terrace at The Island Bar, hidden above a grocery store. It’s easier to find at night by the string of lights. They pull a perfect pint of local draft beer, and the 270-degree view of the ferry channel and Aberdeen is unmatched. It’s where island residents unwind.
Trails Less Traveled: Hiking the Island's Spine
The Family Trail is for beginners. For a challenge and solitude, seek out these paths.
Mount Stenhouse Summit & The Radar Station
Behind Hung Shing Yeh Beach, a steep, unmarked path leads up towards Mount Stenhouse, the island’s second-highest peak. The climb is rugged, but you’ll be rewarded with a 360-degree panorama and the eerie, fascinating ruins of a old British colonial-era radar station. It’s completely silent up there, save for the wind and the birds. This is advanced hiking—tell someone where you’re going, bring water, and don’t attempt it in slippery conditions.
The Tai Peng to Sok Kwu Wan Coastal Scramble
From the tiny hamlet of Tai Peng (accessible by sampan from Aberdeen or a long hike), a rough coastal path leads east towards Sok Kwu Wan. This is Lamma’s wildest coastline. You’ll pass the striking Tung O Ancient Rock Carving, thought to be 3,000 years old, often with no one else around. Further on, you’ll find Sham Wan, the restricted beach where endangered green turtles occasionally come to nest. The area is closed from June to October, but viewing from the path is a powerful reminder of the island’s ecological importance.
Cultural Currents: Art, Temples, and Sustainability
Lamma’s creative spirit is its lifeblood.
The Lamma Island "Gallery Walk"
Scattered across the island are private studios and galleries that aren’t advertised. Look for small signs for Lamma Loft or ask politely in shops about local artists. Often, you can visit a sculptor’s cliffside studio or a painter’s garden gallery. The work here—ceramics, paintings, driftwood sculptures—is deeply inspired by the island’s landscape and is far more meaningful than mass-produced souvenirs.
Hung Shing Yeh Temple & The Tin Hau Festival
Everyone visits the big Tin Hau Temple in Yung Shue Wan. Fewer walk to the smaller, older Hung Shing Yeh Temple near the beach of the same name. It’s quieter, more atmospheric, and offers a sense of the island’s centuries-old fishing heritage. If you can time your visit for the Tin Hau Festival (usually in April or May), you’ll witness Lamma’s biggest secret: its vibrant community spirit. Elaborate floral floats, traditional opera, and a massive seafood feast for thousands transform the island. It’s chaotic, colorful, and utterly authentic.
Living Gently: The Zero-Waste & Farm-to-Table Scene
Lamma has been eco-conscious for decades. The secret is to participate. Visit the Lamma Corner shop for package-free groceries. Look for roadside honesty boxes where locals sell their surplus passionfruit, eggs, or kale—just drop your money in the tin. Some restaurants, like the wonderful Rainbow Seafood Restaurant (ask for the local’s menu), source directly from island organic farms. The lesson here is to slow down, shop consciously, and appreciate the island’s delicate balance.
The ultimate local tip is this: Lamma isn’t a checklist. It’s a mood. Get lost on a side path. Strike up a conversation at a village store. Buy a lychee ice pop from a freezer outside someone’s house. Let the slow, rhythmic pace of island life wash over you. The real secret is that Lamma isn’t just a destination; for those who wander with respect and curiosity, it becomes a feeling—a respite of wild beauty and gentle community, forever lingering just a short ferry ride from the urban frenzy.
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Author: Hongkong Travel
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